Mechanics and tips

Tire width is the decision that most changes how your bike performs on gravel. Wider is not always better: it depends on the terrain, the internal width of your rim, and the clearance of your frame and fork.

Common ranges by terrain:

• 32–38 mm: fast gravel, compacted paths, or mixed with asphalt. Agile ride, low resistance.
• 40–45 mm: the all-terrain standard for modern gravel. Good balance between comfort and efficiency.
• 47–50 mm: technical gravel, roots, loose rock, or loaded bikepacking. More damping, more grip.
• Always check the actual clearance of your frame, leaving at least 4 mm of margin on each side of the mounted tire.

Pressure and tubeless: As a starting point, try between 1.7–2.4 bar in the front and 1.9–2.6 bar in the rear, adjusting according to your weight, the internal rim width, and the roughness of the terrain.

The rim determines which tires you can fit well, not just the frame. A rim that is too narrow for a wide tire causes the profile to "bulge" and lose stability; one that is too wide flattens the tire and increases the risk of pinch flats.

Rim/tire width compatibility:

• 19–21 mm internal → 32–40 mm tires. Fast/mixed gravel with asphalt.
• 21–25 mm internal → 38–47 mm tires. All-terrain gravel (most common).
• 25–30 mm internal → 45–2.2" MTB tires. Technical gravel / bikepacking / plus.

Points to check before buying or mounting:

• Hooked vs. hookless: hookless rims usually require lower maximum pressures and tires certified for that standard.
• Spoke count: 24–28 spokes is common for gravel; increase it (32+) if you carry a lot of weight or weigh more than 90 kg.
• Hub: check the axle standard (12x100 front / 12x142 rear) and the brake system.
• Spoke tension: a "lively" wheel when pressing opposite spokes usually needs truing.

Gravel handlebars differ from road handlebars in three parameters: width, flare (outward opening of the drops), and drop (vertical distance). Each parameter changes control on loose terrain.

• Width: 40–46 cm — approximately matching your shoulder width.
• Flare: 0°–24° — more flare provides better control on technical descents; low flare is closer to a road position.
• Drop: 100–128 mm — the vertical distance between the top of the tube and the lowest part of the curve.
• If you experience wrist pain or numb hands, first check the angle/alignment/level of the levers, the "drop" relative to the ground, and the height before changing handlebars.

80% of gravel bike breakdowns can be prevented or resolved with four simple routines.

• Chain and drivetrain: Clean and lubricate every 100–200 km or after riding in mud.
• Tubeless sealant: Replenish every 2–3 months, sooner in hot and dry climates.
• Torque settings: Check stem, seatpost, and brakes with a torque wrench after rides with vibrations or falls.
• Disc brakes: Check pad and disc wear (minimum 1 mm) and bleed if the lever feels spongy.

Roadside tubeless puncture: First try a plug/wick; if the cut is large, install an inner tube; always carry a CO2 inflator or mini pump.